Goodbye London Town, Ciao Milan! Fall/ Winter Fashion Week season is on full tilt and there’s no stopping the country that brought us sumptuous names like Pucci, Valentino, Versace, Prada, Armani, and Moschino.
Mama Mia indeed! Like the supple and serene depictions of the Madonna that adorn the Vatican walls, Dolce & Gabbana invoked a romantic and rather holy vision of motherhood in its women’s fall/ winter 2015-2016 line. This is by no means a maternity line; complete with real bebe’s in their arms, the runway mamas struck an effortless balance between pastoral home life and the sophisticated glamour of 1950’s Rome. Everyday is Mother’s Day for D&G, as proclaimed by the adorable children’s drawing prints and embroidered text ““ti voglio bene mamma” (I love you mama) that marks many of the designer's pencil skirts, dresses and coats. La dolce vita of the line continues in a loving embrace of black and red with classic tailored dresses, lace, fur accents, lavish rose motifs and images of the virgin herself; an altogether immaculate conception.
At Milan Fashion week, the next generation continues to show their fresh faces, even through the established Italian brands. The delightfully quirky Vivetta Ponti, has proved her revelatory talent as the guest designer for Giorgio Armani’s fall 2015 line. The Milan- based Vivetta brand only began in 2010 and has since become a favorite of A-list celebrities and artists everywhere. Her first big arena runway show at Giorgio Armani’s Teatro on February 28 was a milestone for the designer whose playful, surrealist creations are now attracting a greater public. Inspired by a Marianne Faithfull on psychedelics’ concept, Vivetta’s Armani collection was dosed with plenty of neatly embroidered collars ( some of which were hands) tucked under wildly heady prints, swinging sixties coats touched with fur and fantastical silhouettes. The effect sent viewers through the looking glass along with Alice.
Thanks to the designer gods, and a tip off to L.A Sheriff’s Department , Lupita Nyong’o’s pearl strung $150,000 Calvin Klein gown was potentially found after the Oscar appearance dress was taken from her unattended hotel room. The unknown perpetrator apparently dumped the Francisco Costa designed dress in a bathroom at the West Hollywood London hotel, where the actress had been staying. An investigation continues to determine if this pearly masterpiece is indeed the one Nyonog’o wore and not a copy. From Marilyn Monroe’s missing jewels to the Saks Fifth Avenue employee heist of last year, the fashion world is laced with mysterious crimes.
Alexander McQueen’s exhibit Savage Beauty will make its first tour to Europe, much to the joy of Londoners. Known for being one of the most innovative designers of our time, McQueen wowed and provoked audiences across the world with his unearthly imagination and startling performances. The retrospective show at the V & A presents the entirety of his work from his MA graduate project to his 2010 collection , left unfinished due to his untimely death.
Yes, Los Angles sets your clocks forward, Spring is near! Wait, did it ever leave? To be fair, the rain has made it a bit chilly, by Angeleno standards. Leggings are a go-to cozy comfort and the wardrobe staple has recently received classy upgrades. Pull a sheer or fridge skirt over those stretchy things and you’ve gone from basic to dressy. Rodarte might have crafted the sophisticated ideal leggings in its fall 2015 collection: tight leather, high waisted and lace-lined.
While the debate continues whether or not leggings count as pants, the world of bottoms have gotten rather flared. The mix of denim from the 70’s and 90’s rages on as designers and fashion forwards take on the challenge of the perfect bell bottom. The results seem to strike the right balance of groovy: too dopey hippie kid, not too understated. Paired with platform boots, a big rimmed hat and some fur accents, the flower child has gone sleek.
Mark your planners, this week is spotted with fashion events. On Thursday, March 5, head to a party for See Eyewear at the brand’s Americana at Brand’s store hosted by Project Runway winner Mondo Guerra for music, food and swag. If you love vintage and a natural hand dyed, on the way to Big Sur look, don’t miss Stash Style’s pop up store that will remain for the month of March at Das Shop in Venice. The worldly jewlary company Jet Set Candy opens a trunk show at Bloomingdales in Century City, Santa Monica Place and the Beverly Center March 12-14. Impassioned by the wonders of travel, Jet Set Candy features unique souvenir inspired tokens make from quality silver, 14k vermeil and solid gold.
Speaking of our busy city, who knew Los Angeles darling, writer/ director/ actress/ app creator, Miranda July designed a purse? In October of last year, July teamed up with leather designer Welcome Companions to create a bag as brilliantly uncanny as her art. The inside pockets of the red boxy bag reveals a survival kit every lovable neurotic could want; a small bottle of homeopathic calming pills, one almond for low blood sugar, an emergency nightgown and a deck of “multi-purpose cards,” that entitle the holder one free item from the store of their choice and lend agency in other surrealist situations. This limited edition bag, sold only at Opening Ceremony, is a work of art that plays with ideas of consumerism and the emotional lives of objects.
Hungry for more? This weekend, sit back and prepared to get inspired by a delicious spread of fashion films. These spellbinding and need to know films are hand picked by the highly acclaimed fashion critic, video journalist and first ever fashion blogger Diane Pernet who single handedly catapulted the new medium into the public eye and popular use. Pernet’s blog A Shaded View on Fashion, and her subsequent A Shaded View on Fashion Films festival have long been coveted resources for the industry’s evolution into the digital age. The cutting edge genre has released the fashion world from the physical confines of the runway to the curated experience of a whole world. While show rooms, ads, and fashion shows do evoke emotion, fashion films have restored narrative and performance art to fashion in a crucial way. ASVOFF has collaborated with some of the most important artists and designers of our time including Yves Saint Laurent, Miu Miu, Alexander McQueen, photographer Nan Goldin, song writer Leonard Cohen and filmmaker Chris Cunningham. Thanks to Pernet, Fashion PR is forever changed; the accessible and short format has given new designers the ability to transcend industry barriers and promote the essence of their creations without the runway costs and are increasingly a choice of expression for insiders. Take a few moments and get acquainted with these films and note- the possibilities are endless.